We manufacture Sailing Boat for Sale Europe. Sailing classic boats, motor boats, and luxury yachts price from the manufacturer. High quality and low prices
Wood has always been a favorite building material for small crafts. Despite the advent of new materials and the increasing difficulty of obtaining suitable long-length, large end-section durable timbers, it is still popular. Developing new timber products, improved adhesives, and new techniques have made boatbuilding by the amateur much more popular. In order to provide guidelines for timber selection, Standards Australia publishes a Standard AS 1738-1975 Timber for marine craft
Timber for planking, stringers, chines, and ribs should be selected for straightness of grain, low shrinkage, and freedom from defects. If the boat is to be seaworthy, very few defects can be tolerated in these particular parts so knots, shakes, decay, compression failures, and brittle heart must be carefully excluded. Tightgumveins, borer holes, and surface checks will not cause trouble unless they are concentrated in a relatively small area. They can usually be satisfactorily caulked.
Sailing Boat for Sale Europe
Sailing Boat for Sale Europe
Unless the boat is to be of glued construction or will be out of water for considerable periods, there is no need to use timber dried to 12% moisture content, except for interior fittings. However, because it shrinks while drying, wood for the upper parts and internal framing should have a moisture content of less than 20%/while those parts customarily submerged should not be less than 20%. Of course, requirements such as these are usually much more accessible to specify than to observe because of the·timenormally required to build a boat. All boards should be quarter sawn to minimize shrinkage during construction or when the boat is out of the water.
It is not always possible to build small craft entirely of durable timbers and, since the decay hazard in a boat kept on moorings is high, it is necessary to take precautions. Some preservative-treated plywood and timbers are available. Where such material is not obtainable, either from stock or on order, nondurable timbers should be liberally treated with a recognized preservative. Australian standard 1604- 1980 Preservative treatment for sawn timber, veneers, and plywood should be consulted for types of preservative and appropriate loadings.
Timber and Plywood
The chief advantages of timber and plywood are:
Positive buoyancy;
High strength in relation to weight;
Resilience and ability to withstand suddenly applied shock loads;
Ease of shaping, bending, and finishing without the need for special equipment;
Good appearance;
High durability when properly selected/installed and ventilated;
Ability, in many cases, to accept treatment with preservatives to give long-term durability under severe conditions and where ventilation is inadequate;
Ease of working without requiring closely controlled factory conditions in respect of temperature and humidity;
Resistance to abrasion;
Ability to be altered at a relatively low cost.
Developments in plywood and adhesives have opened up a new field for constructing watercraft. The main advantage of plywood is that it is flexible and that it is obtainable in large sheets. Providing marine grade plywood is used and correct methods of application are adopted, the plywood chine system is very successful. New methods, new materials, and new forms of construction have been tried and adopted and there is still scope for progress in these fields of construction
We manufacture and sell Dinghy Sailboat for Sale. Check our website for more info about the classic wooden sailboats, motor boats, and luxury yachts for sale
Dinghy, is a boat, measuring 14–17 feet, sometimes coming rigged with a spritsail. Every household once had at least one dinghy. The dinghy was quite often used by the children learning to sail. When teenage boys practiced boat-building, their first project was often a dinghy. The young boat-builder would then perhaps sell the boat and use the money to buy a bicycle.
Seal hunting boats have been used by seal hunters for hundreds of years. Compared to other utility boats, the 24–32 foot seal-hunting boat, equipped with a mast, was quite large. The seal hunters would load all their provisions, equipment, and clothes for the long seal-hunting expedition onto the boat. The seal hunting boat served as a base camp for the hunters during the expedition, which could last for several weeks. The hunters also slept in the boat.
The seal-hunting dinghy was a smaller vessel used on sealing expeditions. When the hunters went out on day trips from the base camp, they would take the dinghy. Seal-hunting dinghies were sometimes equipped with a mast in the bow. A typical dinghy had two runners under the hull, which made it easier to push the vessel on the ice floes.
Dinghy Sailboat for Sale
We manufacture different types and dimensions of sailing dinghy boats. For more information about the other wooden sailing boat types, kindly check our main page.
Dinghy Sailboat for Sale
The purpose of this booklet is to tell you something about our Tech Dinghy and how to sail it, and specifically to provide you with the information necessary to pass the Nautical Association’s Provisional, Crew, and Helmsman. Please do not think of these skill checks as tests, but instead, as measures of your understanding of our sport.
We don’t expect perfection from our beginners, but only that our members be able to safely handle the boats and themselves on the lake. For those who wish it, there will be much more that can be learned about other boats and other waters, but what can be learned here will provide the basis to build on.
The Tech was designed specifically for MIT by Professor George Owen, and the first boats were made for the opening of the Sailing Pavilion in 1935. These boats were built of wood, lapstrake construction by the famous Herreshoff Yard in Bristol, Rhode Island. They featured a movable mast so they could be either a sloop or cat rigged. A large half-model of these early boats still exist in the stairway at the Pavilion.
In 1953 the first fiberglass Techs were built by Beetle Boat of Cape Cod, and their construction marked a pioneering effort in this material that would soon take over the boat-building industry. These boats had a relatively low freeboard and were famous for their rugged construction. Our present Techs were built in 1993 by OSP Composites of Wisconsin, and the design was modified by yacht-designed Halsey Herreshoff, grandson of the original builders.
The boats are 12 1/2 feet long, cat-rigged, weigh about 200 pounds, and represent the best technology in heavy-duty fiberglass construction. Although it is designed as a beginner’s boat and for casual recreational use, the Tech is a popular boat for racing and one of the most popular college racing classes. The fittings and adjustments on the Tech permit the skilled sailor to fine-tune the boat for top performance. The Tech is so well-balanced it is possible to sail the boat without a rudder with only minute adjustments to trim
We manufacture UK Yacht for Sale. Classic wooden boats, sailing boats, and motor boats for sale. Check our website for more info about luxury yachts
It was blowing 20 to 25 knots out of the east-northeast, gusting to 30, as more than 80 sailing yachts maneuvered off Nantucket last August for the start of the annual Opera House Cup Race. There were many fast boats in the fleet, including a couple of former AMERICA’S Cup contenders, but the big race that day, the blood race, was between two giants that were tacking and jibing at opposite ends of the half-mile-long starting line.
Hugging the windward mark, the Nantucket Channel buoy was the ketch WHITEHAWK, 92′ long, with a 20½’ beam, weighing in at 175,000 pounds and drawing 7’7″ with her 10′ daggerboard up. Cruising the leeward end of the line, to ensure sufficient water for the 13′ she was drawing with her 3½’ racing keel extension attached, was the sloop WHITEFIN, 90′ long, with a 21½ ‘ beam and weighing in at 135,000 pounds, 40,000 pounds lighter than her rival.
Although both boats carry approximately the same sail area—slightly more than 4,000 square feet—both were heavily reefed that blustery day. WHITEHAWK was under triple-reefed main and staysail only. WHITEFIN was flying a double-reefed main and a full-hoist blade jib.
Basic Sailing with a UK Yacht for Sale
Basic Sailing with a UK Yacht for Sale
The basic concept of sailing is quite simple, and sailing is something many people learn by themselves through trial and error. Young children are often the quickest to learn because they do not try to complicate matters. It will be easier to discuss what is involved, however, if we use some standard nautical terms and the specific names for the parts of the boat.
Refer to the ‘Short List of Nautical Terms’ at the back of the booklet and figures 1 and 2 for clarification. Don’t try to completely absorb all of the material at once, but instead get some on-the-water experience. You can then come back to this material for a fuller understanding.
In its simplest form, to sail you do little more than point the boat where you want to go and pull in the sail enough to keep it from luffing (i.e., keep it from shaking like a flag).
The Wind
It is not possible to sail straight into the wind, so if pulling in the sail does not stop the sail from luffing, the bow of the boat must be turned further away from the wind direction. When this is done the sail will automatically seek the leeward side of the boat (the side away from the wind). As you can see, it is important that you keep track of the wind at all times, particularly what your course is relative to the wind direction. Each change of the wind’s angle to the boat requires a sail adjustment.
Since the sailboat can not sail directly toward the wind, and because all our maneuvers should be thought of in relation to the wind direction, our first step is to determine the exact direction the wind is coming from. Wind direction can be determined in many ways; flags, smoke, and ripples on the water. But the most common method is by watching your telltale (pieces of yarn or other light material fastened to the wire stays).
The exact angle of the wind to your boat is something you must be aware of at all times if you are to intelligently and safely maneuver your boat. Every few moments you should be rechecking the wind’s relative angle to your boat. Although you may be using your telltales most of the time, it is also important to watch the water upwind so you will have advance warning of a change in the wind direction or strength. An added puff of wind will darken the surface of the water, and you will be able to watch the progress of the puff toward your boat. In this way you can be ready to take appropriate action.
We manufacture Motor Yacht Sale Europe and for European customers. Sailing boats and yachts for sale directly from the manufacturer with high quality
A motor yacht, often simply referred to as a “yacht,” is a type of recreational boat or ship designed primarily for pleasure and luxury cruising. Motor yachts are known for their motorized propulsion systems, comfortable amenities, and spacious interiors. Here are some key features and aspects of motor yachts:
1. Motorized Propulsion: Unlike sailing yachts, which rely on wind power, motor yachts are equipped with internal combustion engines or electric motors for propulsion. This allows for greater speed and maneuverability.
2. Luxurious Accommodations: Motor yachts are designed to provide a high level of comfort and luxury for passengers and crew. They often feature well-appointed cabins or staterooms, spacious salons, dining areas, and fully equipped kitchens (galleys).
3. Size Range: Motor yachts can vary widely in size, from relatively small vessels suitable for a family outing to large superyachts that can rival small cruise ships in terms of amenities and accommodations.
4. Exterior Deck Space: Many motor yachts feature ample outdoor deck space, including sun decks, lounging areas, and dining spaces. These areas provide passengers with opportunities to relax and enjoy the scenery.
5. Crew and Service: Larger motor yachts often have a professional crew that includes a captain, deckhands, chefs, stewards, and engineers. The crew is responsible for operating the vessel, ensuring guest comfort, and providing catering and hospitality services.
6. Navigation and Technology: Modern motor yachts are equipped with advanced navigation and communication systems, including GPS, radar, sonar, and satellite communication. These technologies enhance safety and navigation.
7. Customization: Many motor yachts are custom-built to the owner’s specifications, allowing for a high degree of personalization in terms of layout, design, and amenities.
8. Water Toys and Tender: Motor yachts often carry a variety of water toys and a tender (small boat) for recreational activities such as snorkeling, water skiing, fishing, and exploration of nearby shores.
9. Cruising Destinations: Motor yachts can explore a wide range of cruising destinations, from coastal areas and islands to inland waterways and international waters. Popular destinations include the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, the South Pacific, and more.
10. Maintenance and Operation: Owning and operating a motor yacht requires regular maintenance, including engine servicing, hull cleaning, and interior upkeep. Proper care ensures the vessel’s safety, longevity, and performance.
11. Chartering: Some motor yacht owners choose to charter their vessels when not in use. Chartering allows others to experience the luxury and adventure of cruising on a motor yacht.
12. Environmental Considerations: As with all vessels, there is a growing emphasis on eco-friendly practices and technologies in the design and operation of motor yachts. Hybrid and electric propulsion systems, as well as waste management and energy-efficient solutions, are increasingly being incorporated.
Motor yachts offer a luxurious and convenient way to explore the world’s waters, catering to those who seek relaxation, adventure, and the pleasures of life on the sea. They are often associated with the epitome of maritime luxury and are symbols of prestige and opulence.
Motor Yacht Sale Europe
1. Motorized Propulsion:
Motor yachts are equipped with internal combustion engines or electric motors to provide propulsion.
Engines can be diesel, gasoline, or hybrid systems, and their power and efficiency vary based on the yacht’s size and design.
Thrusters may be installed to aid in maneuvering, especially in tight spaces like marinas.
2. Luxurious Accommodations:
Motor yachts are designed with comfort and luxury in mind, often featuring multiple cabins or staterooms with en-suite bathrooms.
Staterooms are equipped with amenities such as large beds, storage space, entertainment systems, and climate control.
High-end finishing materials, including fine woods, fabrics, and marble, are used for interior decor.
3. Size Range:
Motor yachts come in a wide range of sizes. Small motor yachts can be 30 to 40 feet long, while large superyachts can exceed 100 feet or more.
The size of the yacht impacts its amenities, crew requirements, and the number of passengers it can accommodate.
4. Exterior Deck Space:
Motor yachts typically have multiple decks, including a main deck, upper deck, and sometimes a sun deck.
Outdoor areas often feature comfortable seating, loungers, dining tables, and even jacuzzis or swimming pools on larger yachts.
The design allows passengers to enjoy the sun, sea breeze, and scenic views.
5. Crew and Service:
Crew sizes vary but can include a captain, deckhands, stewards, chefs, engineers, and more.
Crew members are responsible for the safe operation of the yacht, navigation, maintenance, and providing exceptional service to guests.
Professional chefs prepare gourmet meals, and stewards attend to guests’ needs, ensuring a high level of hospitality.
6. Navigation and Technology:
Motor yachts are equipped with advanced navigation systems, including GPS for precise location tracking.
Radar, sonar, and chartplotter systems assist with navigation, collision avoidance, and depth monitoring.
Satellite communication systems provide internet access and ensure constant contact with shore and emergency services.
7. Customization:
Owners of motor yachts often have the opportunity to customize the yacht’s interior layout, decor, and amenities to suit their preferences.
Customization may include selecting specific wood finishes, fabrics, furniture, and even artwork.
Some owners work closely with naval architects and interior designers to create a one-of-a-kind vessel.
8. Water Toys and Tender:
Motor yachts typically carry a selection of water toys, such as jet skis, kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkeling gear.
A tender, a smaller auxiliary boat, is used for excursions, transportation to shore, and water sports.
These toys and tenders enhance the guest experience and provide recreational opportunities.
9. Cruising Destinations:
Motor yachts can explore a wide range of cruising destinations, including coastal regions, islands, fjords, and inland waterways.
The choice of destination often depends on the owner’s preferences and the yacht’s capabilities.
10. Maintenance and Operation: – Proper maintenance is crucial to ensure the safety, reliability, and longevity of a motor yacht. – Routine maintenance includes engine and generator servicing, hull cleaning, varnish or paint touch-ups, and system checks. – Experienced crew members often handle these maintenance tasks.
11. Chartering: – Some motor yacht owners choose to charter their vessels to offset operational costs and generate income. – Charter guests can enjoy the luxury and amenities of a motor yacht for a specific period. – Chartering can be a lucrative business for yacht owners who wish to share their vessel with others.
12. Environmental Considerations: – To minimize environmental impact, some motor yachts incorporate eco-friendly technologies, such as hybrid or electric propulsion systems. – Waste management systems are designed to minimize pollution, and energy-efficient solutions are employed to reduce fuel consumption.
Motor yachts offer a combination of opulence and adventure, making them an appealing choice for those who seek the ultimate in luxury and comfort while exploring the world’s waters. The experience of owning or chartering a motor yacht is characterized by the attention to detail, personalized service, and the freedom to explore diverse cruising destinations.
Motor Yachts Types
Motor yachts come in various types and styles, each catering to different preferences and purposes. The type of motor yacht you choose often depends on factors such as your cruising goals, lifestyle, and budget. Here are some common types of motor yachts:
Express Cruisers:
Express cruisers are known for their sleek and sporty designs with a focus on speed and performance.
They typically have a single deck, an open cockpit, and a cabin below for overnight stays.
Express cruisers are ideal for day trips, short getaways, and cruising at moderate speeds.
Flybridge Yachts:
Flybridge yachts are characterized by an elevated, open-air deck above the main cabin.
The flybridge provides excellent visibility for navigation and offers additional space for outdoor entertaining, including a helm station and seating.
These yachts are popular for social gatherings and enjoying panoramic views.
Pilothouse Yachts:
Pilothouse yachts feature an enclosed helm station on an upper deck or cabin structure.
The pilothouse offers protection from the elements and a climate-controlled environment for navigation.
These yachts are well-suited for long-distance cruising and exploration in various weather conditions.
Long-Range Cruisers:
Long-range cruisers, often referred to as expedition yachts, are designed for extended voyages and exploration.
They typically have large fuel tanks for extended autonomy and robust construction to withstand challenging conditions.
Long-range cruisers often feature a range of amenities for comfortable living aboard during extended trips.
Trawlers:
Trawlers are known for their fuel efficiency and long-range capabilities, making them ideal for cruising at a relaxed pace.
They often have a single, displacement-style hull, which provides stability and fuel efficiency.
Trawlers are popular for extended cruising, including coastal exploration and offshore passages.
Mega Yachts:
Mega yachts are large, opulent motor yachts that often exceed 100 feet in length.
They offer an unparalleled level of luxury, with multiple decks, spacious cabins, crew quarters, and numerous amenities.
Mega yachts are commonly used for private charters, events, and as status symbols.
Sportfishing Yachts:
Sportfishing yachts are designed for anglers and fishing enthusiasts.
They feature extensive fishing equipment, including fishing chairs, bait stations, and fish lockers.
Sportfishing yachts combine fishing capabilities with comfortable accommodations for overnight trips.
Convertible Yachts:
Convertible yachts combine elements of sportfishing and cruising yachts.
They are versatile vessels with features for both fishing and relaxation, often featuring an open cockpit and a comfortable interior.
Catamaran Motor Yachts:
Catamaran motor yachts have twin hulls, offering stability, a shallow draft, and spacious interiors.
They are known for their efficiency, speed, and ample deck space, making them suitable for a variety of cruising styles.
Downeast Yachts:
Downeast-style yachts have a classic and traditional appearance, with a focus on aesthetics and comfortable cruising.
They often have a single engine, a semi-displacement hull, and a distinctive design influenced by New England lobster boats.
Custom-Built Yachts:
Some motor yacht enthusiasts opt for custom-built yachts, allowing them to work closely with designers and shipyards to create a vessel tailored to their specific requirements and preferences.
The choice of motor yacht type depends on your intended use, whether it’s day cruising, long-distance voyages, fishing expeditions, or hosting extravagant gatherings. It’s essential to consider your cruising goals, lifestyle, and budget when selecting the ideal motor yacht for your needs.
Check our website for Sailing Yacht Price. Sailing boats for sale, classic and modern wooden boats price. Motor boats from the manufacturer with low prices
The history of yachts goes back a long way. The first appearances were in the 1600s when wealthy Dutch merchants built and sailed small and relatively fast boats called “jacht”, especially for pleasure. The actual building and use of yachts sprung into life at the end of the 1800s. In the context of the present report, we will restrict ourselves to the period starting a little before the Second World War up to the present day.
Originally “jachts” were built in wood and in construction quite similar to what was customary in the normal shipbuilding of that time. The hull was single (massive) planking connected to closely spaced wooden frames. The frames were connected to wooden floors and those to the bottom planking. In the early days, many yachts still had flat or slightly curved bottoms. At the upper side, the frames were connected to the deck beams on which the deck planking was laid.
Longitudinal stringers were mostly absent. Later when yachts got keels the construction changed. The sections became rather more V-shaped asking for different construction techniques. The stem beam, the keel beam, and the stern beam were introduced, which functioned also as longitudinal stiffeners, to which the frames were connected, which in turn were connected by the floors.
Sailing Yacht Price and Characteristics
Sailing Yacht Price and Characteristics
The difficulties and weaknesses in the available connecting techniques of that time however posed a serious limit on the achievable overall strength and more in particular the overall rigidity of the yacht hull structure. All wooden construction was only to return in yacht building after the 1970s, when new and serious bonding techniques became available, such as epoxy resins, together with new wood laminating techniques.
So in the 1930’s the new “composite” construction technique came into force, in which the keel, stem, stern, frames, beams, and floors were all constructed in steel (and bolted or riveted, later welded together) to which the still wooden hull and deck planking was connected. This was a big improvement but still rather heavy. Still, later the complete steel hull came into play in which now in the composite d construction also the wooden hull planking and later also the wooden deck planking was replaced by steel and all were riveted or welded together.
This yields a sound and stiff construction for the hull. This construction technique, using either steel or aluminium, lasts till today and is most favored for the bigger yachts or for yachts with high demands on resistance against external local loads, such as yachts designed for use on long ocean voyages or in the arctic regions. After the 1950’s the new construction material “glass reinforced polyester” saw the light in yacht buildings. First, it enabled the series production of yachts bringing the
ownership to a wider public. Then the introduction of the more general “fiber-reinforced resin” materials and construction techniques brought a complete revolution in the construction of yachts. First, the material was used in constructions quite similar to the traditional construction in wood: i.e. with frames, girders, floors, beams, and the lot.
Sailing Boat and Sailing Yacht Price from the Manufacturer
Common practice was also the use of solid and rather thick laminates to overcome the lack of stiffness of the new material. It took some time for the industry to realize the full potential of the new material and to grow to more adapted and mature construction techniques. Monolith hull and deck constructions were introduced with integrated stiffeners. To be followed shortly by the very lightweight and very stiff sandwich construction technique using a low-density foam or wood as core material and very thin inner and outer laminates only.
For 15 years now also the use of very high-quality fibers with astonishing mechanical properties, such as aramid and in particular carbon fiber, has revolutionized the construction of high-performance yachts again and enormous gains in overall weight, strength, and stiffness have been achieved. These are all fields in which the yacht building industry became the front-runner, and many developments originated from the yacht-building industry experiments.
The yacht-building industry also became the one that was confronted with the associated problems and challenges first. A similar development can be noted in the evolution of the rig. In the early day, wood as a construction material was the norm. Dimensions and the layout of the yacht rig were restricted by the available lengths of wood till adequate connecting techniques (gluing) became available. Still, the wooden mast was rather voluminous and therefore heavy. All of this had a serious negative effect on the performance of a sailing boat.
A New Sailing Yacht Price
In the 1930s aluminum alloys became available as construction material for masts became available and this introduced the possibilities for much lighter and slender masts. Also, the stiffness of the mast could be improved as well as the quantity and the layout of the rigging. From the 1980s onwards the composite mast was introduced. Originally they were constructed in the more traditional material glass fiber reinforced polyesters such as in the so-called Freedom rig.
For over 25 years now carbon fiber and epoxy resin have been introduced for mast construction. In combination with very high-tech production techniques this has enabled a revolution in mast weight, stiffness, and performance Also masts and rigs have been produced like the Dyna Rig, which would not have been possible in any other material.
This is the first time that this subject of yacht design has been broached in an ISSC forum. Consequently, a slightly wider search of literature and background references has been made with regard to hull structure, masts, rigging, and appendages and keels. It has also been necessary for some areas to elaborate on the topics and themes in a fundamental manner. This examination of literature has been backed up by consultations with leading industrial houses in the design and construction of yachts and rigging.
We offer Used Sailboats for Sale in the USA. Sailing boats and yachts, motor boats, classic wooden boats from the manufacturer with high-quality and low prices
Used sailboats are vessels that have been previously owned and are available for purchase on the second-hand market. Buying a used sailboat can be an attractive option for those who want to own a sailboat without the expense of buying a brand new one. Here are some key considerations when looking at used sailboats:
1. Age and Condition:
Pay attention to the age of the sailboat and its overall condition. Older sailboats may require more maintenance and upgrades.
Inspect the hull for signs of damage, including cracks, blisters, and osmosis (blisters caused by water absorption). These issues can be costly to repair.
2. Rigging and Sails:
Check the standing rigging (stays and shrouds) and running rigging (lines and cables) for signs of wear or damage.
Inspect the sails for tears, stains, and overall condition. Sails can be expensive to replace.
3. Maintenance Records:
Request maintenance and repair records from the previous owner. A well-documented history of maintenance and upgrades is a good sign.
Ask about any recent repairs or improvements made to the sailboat.
4. Survey:
Consider hiring a marine surveyor to inspect the sailboat thoroughly. A surveyor can provide an unbiased assessment of the boat’s condition and value.
A survey may uncover hidden issues that could impact the boat’s seaworthiness and value.
5. Ownership History:
Inquire about the sailboat’s ownership history. Find out how many previous owners it has had and whether it has been involved in any accidents or incidents.
Verify the boat’s title and ensure there are no outstanding liens or legal issues.
6. Sailboat Type and Purpose:
Determine the type of sailing you plan to do (cruising, racing, day sailing) and choose a sailboat that suits your intended use.
Consider factors like the sailboat’s size, draft (how deep it sits in the water), and keel type (fin, full, or centerboard) based on your sailing preferences.
7. Budget:
Have a clear budget in mind before shopping for a used sailboat. Remember that there will be ongoing expenses for maintenance, mooring, and upgrades.
Be prepared for additional costs, such as registration fees and taxes.
8. Test Sail:
If possible, take the sailboat for a test sail to assess its handling, maneuverability, and overall performance.
Pay attention to how the sailboat responds to different wind and weather conditions.
9. Negotiation:
Be prepared to negotiate the price with the seller. Research comparable sailboats in the market to ensure you are getting a fair deal.
Consider hiring a broker to assist with negotiations and paperwork.
10. Additional Equipment: – Take stock of the sailboat’s additional equipment and amenities, such as safety gear, electronics, navigation systems, and comfort features. – Evaluate whether any equipment needs upgrading or replacement.
11. Location and Transportation: – Consider the sailboat’s location and how you plan to transport it to your desired sailing area, if necessary. – Calculate the cost of transporting the boat to its new location.
Used sailboats offer an affordable entry into the world of sailing and can provide years of enjoyment for their owners. However, it’s essential to do thorough research and inspections to ensure that the sailboat is in good condition and suits your sailing needs and preferences.
Used Sailboats for Sale in the USA
1. Age and Condition:
Age: The age of a sailboat can significantly affect its condition and resale value. Older boats may require more maintenance and upgrades to stay seaworthy.
Overall Condition: Inspect the hull, deck, and interior for signs of wear and damage. Look for cracks, blisters, soft spots, or delamination in the fiberglass or other materials.
Osmosis: Osmosis occurs when water is absorbed into the hull, causing blisters. A professional survey can detect osmotic issues.
2. Rigging and Sails:
Standing Rigging: Examine the condition of the standing rigging, including shrouds and stays. Look for rust, fraying, or any signs of wear. Rigging issues can compromise safety.
Running Rigging: Check the condition of running rigging, such as halyards, sheets, and lines. Worn or damaged lines should be replaced.
Sails: Inspect the sails for tears, stains, mildew, and overall condition. Replacement sails can be expensive, so factor this into your budget.
3. Maintenance Records:
Documentation: Request maintenance and repair records from the seller. Well-documented maintenance history is a positive sign of responsible ownership.
Upgrades: Inquire about any recent upgrades or repairs, such as engine overhauls, electronics installations, or structural improvements.
4. Survey:
Marine Surveyor: Consider hiring a qualified marine surveyor to conduct a comprehensive inspection. Surveyors assess the hull, rigging, engine, and other critical components.
Surveys: There are two main types of surveys: a pre-purchase survey and a condition and value (C&V) survey. A pre-purchase survey is more detailed and recommended if you’re seriously considering the boat.
5. Ownership History:
Previous Owners: Ask about the number of previous owners and the reasons for selling. Multiple owners in a short period may raise concerns.
Incidents: Inquire if the sailboat has been involved in any accidents, groundings, or insurance claims. This information can affect the boat’s history and value.
6. Sailboat Type and Purpose:
Type: Determine the type of sailboat that suits your needs, such as cruising, racing, or day sailing.
Size and Draft: Consider the boat’s size, draft (how deep it sits in the water), and keel type based on your intended sailing areas and preferences.
7. Budget:
Initial Cost: Define a budget for purchasing the sailboat. Consider not only the purchase price but also the costs of maintenance, repairs, and upgrades.
Ongoing Expenses: Keep in mind ongoing expenses, including mooring or storage fees, insurance, maintenance, fuel, and registration.
8. Test Sail:
Test Sail: Whenever possible, arrange for a test sail. This allows you to experience how the sailboat handles under various wind and weather conditions.
Handling: Pay attention to the boat’s handling, responsiveness, and overall performance. Evaluate how easy it is to sail and maneuver.
9. Negotiation:
Research: Conduct research to determine the fair market value of the sailboat by comparing prices for similar models and conditions.
Negotiation: Be prepared to negotiate the price with the seller. Start with a reasonable offer and be open to counteroffers.
10. Additional Equipment: – Inventory: Make a list of the sailboat’s additional equipment and amenities, such as safety gear, electronics, navigation systems, and creature comforts. – Upgrades: Assess whether any equipment needs upgrading or replacement. Calculate the potential cost of improving or adding necessary gear.
11. Location and Transportation: – Location: Consider the sailboat’s current location and how it aligns with your sailing plans. Think about accessibility to waterways and your preferred sailing areas. – Transportation: If the boat needs to be moved to a different location, evaluate the cost and logistics of transport, including hiring professional boat transport services.
Taking the time to thoroughly evaluate each of these considerations will help ensure that you make an informed decision when purchasing a used sailboat. Consulting with experienced sailors, brokers, and marine professionals can also provide valuable insights and guidance throughout the buying process.
Sailboat Types
Sailboats come in various types and designs, each tailored for specific purposes and sailing experiences. When choosing a sailboat, it’s essential to consider your sailing goals, preferences, and intended use. Here are some common sailboat types:
Sloop:
Description: A sloop is one of the most common and versatile sailboat types. It typically features a single mast with one mainsail and one headsail (usually a jib or genoa).
Versatility: Sloops are suitable for cruising, racing, and day sailing. They are relatively easy to handle and offer a good balance of performance and comfort.
Cutter:
Description: A cutter sailboat has a single mast but features two headsails, a smaller foresail (cutter) and a larger foresail (usually a genoa). Cutters are known for their balance and versatility.
Advantages: Cutters excel in heavy winds and offer options for sail combinations, making them suitable for long-distance cruising.
Ketch:
Description: Ketch sailboats have two masts—a mainmast and a shorter mizzenmast located forward of the rudderpost. They often feature multiple sails, including a jib, mainsail, and mizzen.
Stability: Ketches are known for their stability and balance. They are suitable for cruising and long ocean passages.
Yawl:
Description: Similar to a ketch, a yawl sailboat has two masts, but the mizzenmast is positioned aft of the rudderpost. Yawls are less common than ketches.
Handling: Yawls are known for their ease of handling and are often used for recreational cruising.
Catboat:
Description: Catboats are characterized by a single mast positioned far forward in the bow and a large, single mainsail. They have a simple, uncluttered deck.
Simplicity: Catboats are easy to sail and maintain, making them ideal for beginners and day sailors. They offer a spacious cockpit.
Schooner:
Description: Schooners have two or more masts, with the mainmast being the tallest. They feature multiple sails, including fore-and-aft sails on both masts.
Classic Design: Schooners are often associated with classic and historic sailboats. They offer an elegant appearance and are suitable for cruising.
Trimaran:
Description: Trimarans have three hulls (two smaller hulls, or outriggers, on either side of a central hull). They are known for their stability, speed, and spacious deck space.
Performance: Trimarans can be extremely fast and are favored by sailors looking for exhilarating sailing experiences. They are also popular for cruising.
Catamaran:
Description: Catamarans have two hulls placed parallel to each other, connected by a deck or bridge. They are stable and offer a spacious interior and deck.
Stability and Space: Catamarans provide a stable platform for sailing and are popular for cruising, chartering, and liveaboard lifestyles.
Dinghy:
Description: Dinghies are small, lightweight sailboats typically used for racing, training, or as tenders for larger vessels.
Training: Dinghies are often used to teach sailing fundamentals due to their responsiveness and simplicity.
Daysailer:
Description: Daysailers are small sailboats designed for short outings and day trips. They often have a simple rig and a spacious cockpit.
Recreation: Daysailers are perfect for casual sailing and relaxation on the water.
Racing Sailboat:
Description: Racing sailboats are designed for competitive sailing. They are optimized for speed, agility, and performance.
Specialized: Racing sailboats come in various classes and designs, from small dinghies to large keelboats, each tailored for specific racing conditions and rules.
Cruising Sailboat:
Description: Cruising sailboats are designed for long-distance sailing and comfortable living aboard. They feature amenities for extended voyages.
Comfort: Cruisers prioritize comfort, storage, and seaworthiness. They often have spacious cabins, galleys, and navigation equipment.
The choice of sailboat type depends on your sailing goals, experience level, and preferences. Each type offers a unique sailing experience, and selecting the right sailboat is essential for a safe and enjoyable time on the water.
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Used sailboats are vessels that have been previously owned and are available for purchase on the second-hand market. Buying a used sailboat can be an attractive option for those who want to own a sailboat without the expense of buying a brand new one. Here are some key considerations when looking at used sailboats:
1. Age and Condition:
Pay attention to the age of the sailboat and its overall condition. Older sailboats may require more maintenance and upgrades.
Inspect the hull for signs of damage, including cracks, blisters, and osmosis (blisters caused by water absorption). These issues can be costly to repair.
2. Rigging and Sails:
Check the standing rigging (stays and shrouds) and running rigging (lines and cables) for signs of wear or damage.
Inspect the sails for tears, stains, and overall condition. Sails can be expensive to replace.
3. Maintenance Records:
Request maintenance and repair records from the previous owner. A well-documented history of maintenance and upgrades is a good sign.
Ask about any recent repairs or improvements made to the sailboat.
4. Survey:
Consider hiring a marine surveyor to inspect the sailboat thoroughly. A surveyor can provide an unbiased assessment of the boat’s condition and value.
A survey may uncover hidden issues that could impact the boat’s seaworthiness and value.
5. Ownership History:
Inquire about the sailboat’s ownership history. Find out how many previous owners it has had and whether it has been involved in any accidents or incidents.
Verify the boat’s title and ensure there are no outstanding liens or legal issues.
6. Sailboat Type and Purpose:
Determine the type of sailing you plan to do (cruising, racing, day sailing) and choose a sailboat that suits your intended use.
Consider factors like the sailboat’s size, draft (how deep it sits in the water), and keel type (fin, full, or centerboard) based on your sailing preferences.
7. Budget:
Have a clear budget in mind before shopping for a used sailboat. Remember that there will be ongoing expenses for maintenance, mooring, and upgrades.
Be prepared for additional costs, such as registration fees and taxes.
8. Test Sail:
If possible, take the sailboat for a test sail to assess its handling, maneuverability, and overall performance.
Pay attention to how the sailboat responds to different wind and weather conditions.
9. Negotiation:
Be prepared to negotiate the price with the seller. Research comparable sailboats in the market to ensure you are getting a fair deal.
Consider hiring a broker to assist with negotiations and paperwork.
10. Additional Equipment: – Take stock of the sailboat’s additional equipment and amenities, such as safety gear, electronics, navigation systems, and comfort features. – Evaluate whether any equipment needs upgrading or replacement.
11. Location and Transportation: – Consider the sailboat’s location and how you plan to transport it to your desired sailing area, if necessary. – Calculate the cost of transporting the boat to its new location.
Used sailboats offer an affordable entry into the world of sailing and can provide years of enjoyment for their owners. However, it’s essential to do thorough research and inspections to ensure that the sailboat is in good condition and suits your sailing needs and preferences.
Used Sailboat for Sale USA
1. Age and Condition:
Age: The age of a sailboat can significantly affect its condition and resale value. Older boats may require more maintenance and upgrades to stay seaworthy.
Overall Condition: Inspect the hull, deck, and interior for signs of wear and damage. Look for cracks, blisters, soft spots, or delamination in the fiberglass or other materials.
Osmosis: Osmosis occurs when water is absorbed into the hull, causing blisters. A professional survey can detect osmotic issues.
2. Rigging and Sails:
Standing Rigging: Examine the condition of the standing rigging, including shrouds and stays. Look for rust, fraying, or any signs of wear. Rigging issues can compromise safety.
Running Rigging: Check the condition of running rigging, such as halyards, sheets, and lines. Worn or damaged lines should be replaced.
Sails: Inspect the sails for tears, stains, mildew, and overall condition. Replacement sails can be expensive, so factor this into your budget.
3. Maintenance Records:
Documentation: Request maintenance and repair records from the seller. Well-documented maintenance history is a positive sign of responsible ownership.
Upgrades: Inquire about any recent upgrades or repairs, such as engine overhauls, electronics installations, or structural improvements.
4. Survey:
Marine Surveyor: Consider hiring a qualified marine surveyor to conduct a comprehensive inspection. Surveyors assess the hull, rigging, engine, and other critical components.
Surveys: There are two main types of surveys: a pre-purchase survey and a condition and value (C&V) survey. A pre-purchase survey is more detailed and recommended if you’re seriously considering the boat.
5. Ownership History:
Previous Owners: Ask about the number of previous owners and the reasons for selling. Multiple owners in a short period may raise concerns.
Incidents: Inquire if the sailboat has been involved in any accidents, groundings, or insurance claims. This information can affect the boat’s history and value.
6. Sailboat Type and Purpose:
Type: Determine the type of sailboat that suits your needs, such as cruising, racing, or day sailing.
Size and Draft: Consider the boat’s size, draft (how deep it sits in the water), and keel type based on your intended sailing areas and preferences.
7. Budget:
Initial Cost: Define a budget for purchasing the sailboat. Consider not only the purchase price but also the costs of maintenance, repairs, and upgrades.
Ongoing Expenses: Keep in mind ongoing expenses, including mooring or storage fees, insurance, maintenance, fuel, and registration.
8. Test Sail:
Test Sail: Whenever possible, arrange for a test sail. This allows you to experience how the sailboat handles under various wind and weather conditions.
Handling: Pay attention to the boat’s handling, responsiveness, and overall performance. Evaluate how easy it is to sail and maneuver.
9. Negotiation:
Research: Conduct research to determine the fair market value of the sailboat by comparing prices for similar models and conditions.
Negotiation: Be prepared to negotiate the price with the seller. Start with a reasonable offer and be open to counteroffers.
10. Additional Equipment: – Inventory: Make a list of the sailboat’s additional equipment and amenities, such as safety gear, electronics, navigation systems, and creature comforts. – Upgrades: Assess whether any equipment needs upgrading or replacement. Calculate the potential cost of improving or adding necessary gear.
11. Location and Transportation: – Location: Consider the sailboat’s current location and how it aligns with your sailing plans. Think about accessibility to waterways and your preferred sailing areas. – Transportation: If the boat needs to be moved to a different location, evaluate the cost and logistics of transport, including hiring professional boat transport services.
Taking the time to thoroughly evaluate each of these considerations will help ensure that you make an informed decision when purchasing a used sailboat. Consulting with experienced sailors, brokers, and marine professionals can also provide valuable insights and guidance throughout the buying process.
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The Parts of an America Sailboat
The Hull
Determining the design loads for the hull is a difficult problem. There are many different loads that must be properly accounted for. Similar to ships, the hull is subject to hydrostatic pressure along with dynamic loads due to waves, slamming, grounding, and collisions.
Unlike ships, sailing yacht hulls are also subject to sailing loads due to the sails and rigging. The mast(s) is in compression and the stays and shrouds are in tension, leading to large longitudinal and transverse bending moments on the hull. Complicating the loading and stress distribution is the fact that sailing yachts can have up to 60% of their weight concentrated at the keel attachment point which is often near the base of the mast; for IACC boats the ballast ratio is over 80%.
In addition, the loading is often asymmetrical due to the heel of the yacht and the sails being to one side. The loads experienced by a sailing yacht are illustrated in Figure 1
Yachts can also be subject to large loads while being put into and removed from the water. Boats up to approximately 10m in length are often put on trailers where the hull is supported by a few rollers as point loads. Larger yachts are put into and removed from the water using travel lifts and slings that normally support the hull in only two places. The loads from trailers (if appropriate) and travel-lift slings depend only on the weight of the hull and are easily predicted. They must be checked during the design stage and for some yachts could be the critical design load for the hull scantlings.
America Sailboat and Sailing Yachts
America Sailboat and Sailing Yachts
Sailing yachts are also subjected to impact loadings arising from a large range of possible impact events, from collisions with other craft or floating debris and grounding to everyday docking bumps and objects dropped onto decks or inside the hull. Impact damage may of course be dangerous because a breach may lead immediately to the loss of the vessel, but also because less severe damage may significantly weaken the vessel’s structure. Further, damage may grow with cyclic loadings leading to a catastrophic failure under normal loading.
The hydrostatic loads in a calm water are easily determined, but typically they are not the critical design loads. The real challenge is in predicting the hydrodynamic and rigging loads on the hull due to sailing, particularly in extreme conditions. Rigging loads are discussed in Section 4 and hence will not be further mentioned in this section.
Design hydrodynamic loads will be the main focus of this section. There are a limited number of studies into predicting analytically the loads on sailing yacht hulls. Recently, various nonlinear methods have been developed to predict the design loads for ships operating in a seaway. For example, the ISSC committee report (2000) on “Extreme Hull Girder Loading” reports on nonlinear time-domain codes that can determine the nonlinear loading on a ship. An overview of nonlinear methods for a ship at forward speed is given by Beck and Reed (2001).
Alford and Troesch (2008) present a method to create a wave amplitude time history with a specified extreme wave height that can be used in a nonlinear, time-domain ship motions code. A great deal of research has also gone into predicting pressure loading due to water impact that may have direct application to the analytic prediction of loading on yacht hulls. Korobkin (2004) gives an overview of various water impact models that have been developed. Most water impact theories are for a constant velocity, vertical entry. Sailing yachts are often heeled and the theories must be modified for asymmetric sections.
Judge et al. (2003) present results for wedges entering the water at oblique angles. Since water impact happens on an extremely short time scale and the pressure peak is localized near the spray root line and travels very fast across a given panel, the elastic response of the local hull structure becomes important (see for example Faltinsen, 2000). Ideally, the plating and stiffeners in areas susceptible to slamming would be designed using hydroelastic analysis that takes into account both the hydrodynamics and structural dynamics of the problem.
An alternative approach to predicting the dynamic pressure loadings due to water impact and attempting to apply these directly to a hull structural model is to use the concept of an equivalent uniform static (or effective) pressure. These correspond to the pressures which, if applied to a particular structural component in a static manner, will result in the same maximum deformation and maximum stress as produced by the actual dynamic loading (Allen and Jones, 1978).
Such an approach is also common for high-speed motor vessels. Obtaining such an equivalent uniform static pressure using experimental data for an array of pressure transducers over a model, or full-scale, the hull is difficult due to the non-uniform distribution of pressure over the hull following a slam and the very short time period associated with the event.
Realistically, many designs are undertaken using static analysis with such slamming design pressure and reduction factors to account for location, panel size, structural dynamics, and type of boat. The slamming design pressure typically depends on the size and speed of the yacht. Joubert (1982) analyzed 7 actual yacht failures or large plastic deformations that occurred when beating to windward in gale-force winds. Using knowledge of the hull structure, Joubert was able to hindcast the slamming loads that would be necessary to cause the damage.
Using four different analysis techniques (linear theory, membrane stresses, plastic deformation analysis, and plastic limit theory with large deformations) he found widely differing pressure predictions. Joubert’s final conclusion was that although the data is sparse the bottom panel loads on 40-foot length yachts beating in a gale may involve slamming pressures as great as 80 psi. Attempts have been made to use model scale experimental data to obtain the average load on a representative panel area of the hull bottom involved in a slam impact.
Such an average load may be obtained through the use of ‘slam patches’. These are panels, representative of the area of a full-scale hull panel, of high stiffness cut out of a hull model and attached to a load cell via a rigid strut. The load cell then records the average external pressure load acting on the panel. Such a technique, first used for motor vessels (Purcell et al, 1988), was applied to an Open 60’ yacht by Manganelli et al (2003).
Through extensive experimentation, they found equivalent slamming design pressures for the yacht traveling in waves in both upright and heeled conditions. An analytical method developed for comparison to the experimental data including hydroelastic structural effects indicates good agreement. No comparisons to pressures predicted (or used) by Classification Society rules are presented.
Other research specifically directed towards the prediction of sailing yacht loads may be found in Boote et al. (1985) who examined a finite element model and a classical longitudinal strength approach to an aluminum 12m yacht in calm water. They also discuss full-scale trials, although little data is presented.
Ward (1985) analyzed the dynamic stresses in a beam due to a slamming-like pressure peak traveling across the beam. This simplified problem has direct application to the impact forces on the bow sections of a yacht sailing to windward. Ward finds similar trends as used in the ABS empirical impact reduction factors. An extensive hydroelastic analysis of a WOR 60 yacht was conducted by Louarn and Temarel (1999).
Using a combination of finite element analysis for the structure and linear potential flow theory for the hydrodynamic loads, they found that the largest stresses were in the vicinity of the hull to the keel joint area. The effects of heel and rigging loads were included in the analysis.
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In order to be a good sailor, you need to know your boat from head to toe. Understanding what each part does will help you maximize your boat’s potential. Here are some major boat parts, illustrated on a Martin 16, but these basic parts are common to almost any sailboat
The boat in general:
Jib
Main Sail
Forestay (metal wire on the front of the boat)
Shroud (metal wires on the side of the boat
Boom Vang
Rudder
Keel (Centerboard in dinghies)
Bow of the boat (front of the boat)
Stern of the boat (back of the boat)
Bridle (rope triangle in the back)
Boom
Mast
Batten
The Cockpit of the Martin 16, with assistive devices, rigged
Main Sheet
Jib Sheet
Outhaul
Jib Halyard
Tiller
Main Sail Halyard
Boom Vang
Cunningham
Autohelm
Windlass (sheets in and sheets out with autohelm in order to trim sails)
Centerboard Trunk
Main Sheet and Jib Sheet cleat if not using the windlass
Sailing Boats for Sale in the USA
Sailing Boats for Sale in the USA
The purpose of this booklet is to tell you something about our sailing boat and how to sail it, and specifically to provide you with the information necessary to pass the Nautical Association’s Provisional, Crew, and Helmsman. Please do not think of these skill checks as tests, but instead, as measures of your understanding of our sport.
We don’t expect perfection from our beginners, but only that our members be able to safely handle the boats and themselves on the lake. For those who wish it, there will be much more that can be learned about other boats and other waters, but what can be learned here will provide the basis to build on.
The boat was designed specifically for MIT by Professor George Owen, and the first boats were made for the opening of the Sailing Pavilion in 1935. These boats were built of wood, lapstrake construction by the famous Herreshoff Yard in Bristol, Rhode Island. They featured a movable mast so they could be either a sloop or cat rigged. A large half model of these early boats still exists in the stairway at the Pavilion. In 1953 the first fiberglass Techs were built by Beetle Boat of Cape Cod, and their construction marked a pioneering effort in this material that would soon take over the boat-building industry.
These boats had a relatively low freeboard and were famous for their rugged construction. Our present Techs were built in 1993 by OSP Composites of Wisconsin, and the design was modified by yacht-designed Halsey Herreshoff, grandson of the original builders. The boats are 12 1 2 feet long, cat rigged, weigh about 200 pounds, and represent the best technology in heavy-duty fiberglass construction.
Sailing Yachts and Boats
Sailing Yachts and Boats
Although it is designed as a beginner’s boat and for casual recreational use, the Tech is a popular boat for racing and one of the most popular of college racing classes. The fittings and adjustments on the Tech permit the skilled sailor to fine-tune the boat for top performance. The Tech is so well balanced that it is possible to sail the boat without a rudder with only minute adjustments to trim.
Few colleges have such a charming body of water right on campus. The Charles was the birthplace of intercollegiate sailing, and there isn’t a similar body of water anywhere in the world where more people have learned to sail. The river isn’t always as clean as we would like, but it is not as bad as some would have you believe.
The river is cleaner than it was 10 years ago but not as clean as it will be 10 years from now. It is justifiably famous, however, for its shifty winds. The many buildings that surround us play strange tricks with the wind, but few realize even this is somewhat offset by the little-known fact that Boston is one of the windiest cities in the United States — far windier than Chicago, the “Windy City”
The basic concept of sailing is quite simple, and sailing is something many people learn by themselves through trial and error. Young children are often the quickest to learn because they do not try to complicate matters. It will be easier to discuss what is involved, however, if we use some standard nautical terms and the specific names for the parts of the boat.
Refer to the ‘Short List of Nautical Terms’ at the back of the booklet and figures 1 and 2 for clarification. Don’t try to completely absorb all of the material at once, but instead get some on-the-water experience. You can then come back to this material for a fuller understanding
In its simplest form, to sail you do little more than point the boat where you want to go and pull in the sail enough to keep it from luffing (i.e., keep it from shaking like a flag). It is not possible to sail straight into the wind, so if pulling in the sail does not stop the sail from luffing, the bow of the boat must be turned further away from the wind direction.
When this is done the sail will automatically seek the leeward side of the boat (the side away from the wind). As you can see, it is important that you keep track of the wind at all times, particularly what your course is relative to the wind direction. Each change of the wind’s angle to the boat requires a sail adjustment.
The Wind for the Sailing Boats for Sale
Since the sailboat can not sail directly toward the wind, and because all our maneuvers should be thought of in relation to the wind direction, our first step is to determine the exact direction the wind is coming from. Wind direction can be determined in many ways; flags, smoke, and ripples on the water. But the most common method is by watching your telltales (pieces of yarn or other light material fastened to the wire stays). The exact angle of the wind to your boat is something you must be aware of at all times if you are to intelligently and safely maneuver your boat.
Every few moments you should be rechecking the wind’s relative angle to your boat. Although you may be using your telltales most of the time, it is also important to watch the water upwind so you will have advance warning of a change in the wind direction or strength. An added puff of wind will darken the surface of the water, and you will be able to watch the progress of the puff toward your boat. In this way, you can be ready to take appropriate action.
Sail Trim with Sailing Boats for Sale
The proper sail trim is to have the sail pulled in only enough to prevent luffing. The sail works like a bird’s or an airplane’s wing in that the wind flows into the sail over the leading edge (the luff of the sail), and the wind is bent slightly as it flows along the curved surface of the sail and out over the back edge (the leech of the sail).
When the sail is pulled in enough, a force is formed on the leeward side of the sail as the wind speeds up over the curved surface. The centerboard negates the sideway portion of this force, and the boat is driven forward through the water. Luffing occurs when the sail is not pulled in enough, and it may result in the whole sail shaking if the sail is all the way out, or it may be only a gentle pulsing of the sail in the center of the luff of the sail when the sail is almost (but not quite) in enough.
Since luffing starts at the luff of the sail, and the last point to stop luffing is the luff of the sail, this is an important spot to give your attention to. You will find the sail must be kept well in toward the centerline of the boat when the wind is coming from the forward part of the boat, and can be, and should be, well out when the wind is toward the back, or stern, of the boat. Remember, the sail should only be pulled in enough to keep it from bluffing.
Pulling the sail in beyond this point will break up the wind flow on the leeward side of the sail and cause undesirable side effects. In a very strong wind, it may be necessary to ease out the sail a few inches and sail with a controlled amount of luff in the forward part of the sail to avoid excessive heeling to leeward. It may also be necessary to temporarily let the sail out even further if you are tipped quickly in a strong puff of wind. However, keep in mind that a little tipping is natural, and if you are too timid and luff the sail too much to the point where the boat is not moving forward through the water, you will lose your ability to control the boat’s course.
Helming the Boat
Steering the boat takes a little practice before you really feel comfortable. You will quickly learn you must move the tiller the opposite way from the way, you would like the bow to go. The best way to get started is to pick a course that will take you at right angles to the wind direction and pick a target on the far shore to aim at.
This would be sailing on a beam reach. Sit on the windward side of the boat (the side the wind is coming from – also the side opposite the sail) so you can see the luff of the sail and also balance the natural tendency of the wind to tip the boat to leeward.
Also, sit far enough forward in the boat so the tiller will pass by your body as you move the tiller from side to side. A good spot to sit is on the thwart with both feet in the back of this seat. If the wind increases and the boat trips leeward you can move to sit on the gunwale (side). How the boat sits in the water will have a strong effect on how the boat steers, so perhaps we should discuss “Trim of the Boat”.
Trimming the Boat
The stability of our small sailboat depends largely upon the weight of one or two people sailing in the boat as ballast and working to balance the pressure of the wind on the sail. Without this additional weight of people, the boat itself would not have the stability to support the sail even in a very light breeze.
The almost constant shifting of your body position as you maneuver the boat is essential to skillful sailing. Watch windward for the dark patches where fresh puffs of wind darken the water with small ripples. These give advance warning to the skipper of increased winds soon to reach his boat. An alert skipper is always aware of what sort of winds will strike his boat in the next few moments.
The athwartship level or side-to-side trim of the boat particularly, (and the fore and aft level to a lesser degree) has a very noticeable influence on the steering and balance of our boat. If the boat tips down leeward slightly, the boat will have the desirable tendency to turn toward the wind, called weather helm. If the boat is tipped more, this tendency increases to an undesirable degree and an excessive rudder angle must be used to keep the boat on a straight course. The boat is said to have a heavy weather helm or too much weather helm.
Conversely, if one heels the boat to windward, the boat has a tendency to turn away from the wind or create a lee helm which is considered undesirable at all times. Remember – if the boat is tipped either way, you must retain a hold on the tiller or the boat will spin around. If you should panic at the tipping, you need only to let go of the sail to equalize the situation.
The alteration in steering forces is of course influenced by the distorted shape of the immersed part of the hull as well as by the greater turning forces on the sail due to the increased inclination from the supporting hull. To become familiar with this effect of shifting weight, experiment with your weight in different positions on some of your early sails. Move your weight to windward or leeward and adjust your sail trim to control the helm.
You will soon become familiar with the effect of the heel on the pressure against the rudder and learn to anticipate and compensate instinctively and thus become a better helmsman very early. The skipper should never sit on the stern flotation tank as his weight is too far aft for proper balance, and he is in the way of his tiller and cannot easily steer a course to leeward without jamming the tiller against his body.
Tacking and Jibing
If you started off across the river or lake on a reach as we suggested for your initial sail, you will eventually reach a point where you must turn and head back. If the turn changes the wind from one side of the boat to the other, you will have tacked or jibed. It will be a tack (also called coming about) if you turn the bow of the boat through the eye of the wind, and it will be a jibe if you turn the stern through the eye of the wind.
Since the sail reacts quite differently to the two types of turns, it is of the utmost importance that you know which maneuver you are performing. In a small boat such as our sailing boat, the tack is a safer maneuver so you should start with the tack rather than the jibe.
The closest angle you can expect to sail toward the wind is a 45◦ angle, so to perform a tack you must turn a minimum of 90◦ to complete the tack. If you are going from a beam reach in one direction to a beam reach in the opposite direction, a 180◦ turn will be required.
Since the sail will be luffing during most of the tack it is important the boat has good speed (relative to the given wind speed) through the water. If the sail is well out or luffing, trim the boom into the back corner of the hull if you can do so without causing excessive tipping to leeward. Ideally, the sail should be trimmed as the turn into the tack is started, however, during the learning process, it would be permissible to trim in first. Ease the tiller to leeward to start the tack, but keep your body weight windward initially to avoid throwing the boat out of balance.
Watch the sail and when the boom starts toward you, duck under the boom and move toward the new windward side by standing momentarily and pivoting around facing the bow (it is important to be able to watch the luff of the sail and see just where your bow is pointing). Bring your hand holding the sheet (the rope which controls the sail) behind your back to collect the tiller, letting the sheet slide through your hand and maintaining only enough pressure on the line to keep it from running out.
Do not straighten the tiller until the sail stops bluffing or until the boat swings further to some point you now wish to head for. Straightening the tiller before the sail stops luffing will leave the boat stuck in irons (stopped and headed into the wind). Failure to straighten the tiller after the tack will cause the boat to keep turning until it jibes.
After the tack, adjust your weight for good boat trim and take the sheet in the forward hand, and adjust the sail to assure it is properly trimmed for the course you have selected (so it is just on the verge of bluffing).
Jibing is the opposite of tacking, and as we said earlier, involves a turn that moves the stern through the eye of the wind. Unlike the tack, the sail will cross quickly to the new side without any luffing, and in a strong wind, this sudden change of wind pressure from one side of the boat to the other can cause a capsize if precautions are not taken. Also, unlike the tack, a large change, of course, is not necessary for a jibe to occur. If the boat is already sailing on a run (a course where the wind is at the stern) a change of course of a few degrees – or a wind shift of a few degrees, can cause a jibe.
To perform a controlled jibe, move the tiller to windward (away from the sail) and immediately reach around behind your back with the forward hand to hold the tiller to windward. At the same time move your weight to the centerline of the boat again facing toward the bow. The maneuver of moving your weight can be done with you in a deep knee squat, thus keeping your head low and out of the way of the boom.
As you become more confident, you can stand and duck at the appropriate time and be in a better position to move your weight to keep the boat level. In a larger, more stable boat you would trim the sail all the way in and ease it out again on the new leeward side to cushion the shock of the boom snapping from one side to the other.
In a boat as small as the Tech, trimming the sail more than halfway in may cause excessive tipping to leeward, however, it is desirable to trim the sail halfway in so the wind can get behind the leech of the sail and force the sail across without your having to sail too much by-the-lee (where the wind is striking the leeward side of the boat).
You should watch the telltale on the stay to see when you are by the lee and watch the leech of the sail since it will fold toward you just before the boom is blown across. If it is quite windy, get the tiller back to the centerline of the boat as soon as you see the sail start to move across so you will not end your jibe on a beam reach and consequently be tipped excessively to leeward. Also, ease out the sail as soon as it crosses the boat to prevent tipping. After the jibe, adjust your weight for good boat trim, and also check your sail for proper trim.
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To take a boat upwind is the most demanding task for the sailor. In a race, this is the leg where the good sailors will most easily move past the beginners. We already know we cannot sail closer than 45◦ to the wind direction, so if our destination is somewhere upwind, we must sail close hauled on one tack then come about and continue close hauled on the new tack.
Sailing close hauled is different from all other points of sailing because the sail is set at a particular place over the boat and the whole boat is moved toward or away from the wind to keep the sail on the verge of luffing. For the Tech, the end of the boom should be kept over the stern corner, perhaps where one end of the traveler line comes through the stern deck.
The Wind for the Boat for Sale USA
The Wind for the Boat for Sale USA
If the wind is very light, it will be better to keep the boom further outboard of this point, and if the wind is stronger, the boom can be trimmed inboard of this point if you can hike the boat down and keep it from heeling excessively to leeward. For any given wind strength, it is while close-hauled that you will tip the most. Learn how to hook a toe under the thwart seat so you can hike (lean out) and apply some leverage to hold the boat down. Perhaps now is the time to start using the tiller extension so you can get your weight over the side and still keep the tiller near the centerline of the boat.
The tiller extension is not recommended for your early sails because it can get caught in various places and interfere with your steering. However, once mastered, the tiller extension is a valuable tool and essential in boats like the Larks and Lasers used at MIT.
In a puff, it may be necessary to spill some wind by easing out the sail to avoid excessive heel or weather helm. Once the puff has passed, or you have moved your weight windward to offset the force of the wind, the sail must come back in if you expect to sail your highest possible course at maximum speed.
Furthermore, the luff of the sail must be watched about 90 percent of the time and the tiller kept in constant but gentle movement as you seek the optimal course. You will soon learn that minute changes of course as well as minute changes in sail trim (even as little as 1 inch) can be major factors in performance.
In irons or in stays is the condition where a boat is luffing in the wind without forward motion and, therefore, without the ability to steer or without steerage way. To get a boat out of irons, push the tiller toward the side in which you want the bow to turn and wait for the boat to make sternway, then steer the boat out to a course where the sail can be trimmed. Sternway can also be started by holding the boom out over the side into the wind.
You can also use the rudder as a paddle to give you headway by making quick movements to one side or by a combination of both. It should be evident that forward or backward movement of the boat is necessary to get a response from the rudder
When the Tech is at the front of the dock, it should be headed along the dock in the direction that allows the bow to be pointed closest into the wind and with the sail luffing. To get away from the dock, check the wind to see where you must head to be able to fill the sail, and determine what will be the windward side so you will know where to sit. Get the boat moving along the dock so the tiller will work and steer onto the course you have determined is necessary to fill your sail.
You can start by sitting in the boat and pulling yourself along to get some speed while you steer away with the other hand, or you can stand on the dock holding the stay, take a few steps along the dock to develop speed, giving one final push out as you step into the departing boat. As you might imagine, the latter method takes a little more agility and understanding of the hull’s stability. Keep your sail luffing until the momentum of your push carries the boat to a course that will allow the sail to seek the leeward side.
To make a landing, you must again carefully check the wind on the club’s flag to determine which direction is most upwind. Approach the leeward side of the spot you expect to land in so you will have room to turn up into your spot. Since you have no brakes, you must be prepared to luff your sail to slow down.
If you misjudge when to let out the sail and let it out too soon (and lose your headway before your destination is realized), you will lose the ability to steer. Try to touch the dock with the part of your hull where the stay goes through the gunwale, and as soon as you touch, move the tiller away from the dock to increase the friction and thus stop the boat quicker.
A final word of advice avoid the tendency of making your turn too early and thus using up all your turning room. Also, in the first few landings, select a spot with plenty of room on either side on which to land. The hull of the boat has a flat and comparatively wide immersed underbody which requires a retractable blade, called a centerboard, to prevent the boat from sliding sideways and to force the hull to progress forward when wind pressure is applied through the sails.
This board may be left lowered at all times while learning to sail, however, it is usually retracted partially or wholly when sailing off the wind when racing to reduce the resistance or drag and increase the boat’s speed. The centerboard may also be raised slightly to adjust the balance between sail and underwater shape to make steering easier. The novice should leave the centerboard down until he has mastered more important details of sailing. Raising the centerboard will increase rolling and reduce the boat’s stability.
Larger boats, such as MIT’s Rhodes 19’s, have a fixed keel in place of the centerboard. This heavy keel gives the boat the additional advantage of much more stability and makes it difficult to capsize. It has the disadvantage of making the boats difficult to take out of the water.
The crew should sit forward of the cross seat or thwart but preferably fairly close to it since the weight in the bow or narrow part of the boat depresses the bow, makes the boat harder to steer, and also allows waves to slap in. If two persons are carried beside the helmsman, they should sit on the floor on either side of the centerboard with their backs resting against the seat.
Their weight will then be in the center of the boat and evenly dispersed. If a single crew is carried in light air, his weight probably would be best to leeward (the side the sail is carried on), but in a stronger wind he should move across to help keep the boat heeled only slightly to leeward.
The American Bureau of Shipping 1986 published the “Guide for Building and Classing Offshore Racing Yachts” (ABS, 1994) with application to yachts up to 30.5 meters with plan approval. The Guide was updated in 1994 and in 1997 became limited to vessels having an overall length between 24 and 30.5 meters. After 1997 ABS stopped maintaining the Guide. All the main aspects of sailing yacht design are assessed: materials, details and fastenings, plating, internals, rudders, and keels.
The only areas on which no indications are provided are the mast and rigging. Where the hull scantlings are concerned, the Rules in section 7 provide formulae and tables for the thickness calculation of plating; aluminum, steel, fiber-reinforced plastic (both single skin and sandwich) and wood are considered. The same approach is assumed for the scantling of internal reinforcements. Compliance with this standard was required by the International Sailing Federation (ISAF) for yachts entering most offshore sailing races. In 2009 ISAF began requiring compliance with ISO 12215.
For all those aspects not included in the Offshore Racing Yacht Guide, reference should be made to the “Guide for Building and Classing of Motor Pleasure Yachts” (ABS, 2000) for displacement and semi-planing yachts. Designers of large sailing yachts capable of sustaining high speeds (in the planning regime) are referred to the “Guide for Building and Classing High Speed Craft” (ABS, 2001) for appropriate hull plating and internal structure scantlings.
